Step 1) Pick your design – this one is called Pumpkin Silhouette and I purchased it in the online store for $0.99 – you don’t need to worry about size yet. (I changed the color of the shape to better stand out in this tutorial, you do not have to fill in a color.)

Step 2) Draw a rectangle the height of the wording you’d like to put in the pumpkin and a width that overlaps the edges. I picked about 1.75 inches tall. (Again, I am using the green for the tutorial visual)

3) Select both images (the pumpkin and the rectangle) by holding the shift key and clicking on each one and then under the modify menu click on “Subtract.”

4) Remove the rectangle from your pumpkin. You discard the shape or you can use it as your guide to option step 5.

5) (optional, skip 8 if you do not want the extended lines) Create a long, skinny (maybe .25 inch high) rectangle that overlaps the edges of the pumpkin. Copy and paste that rectangle so you now have 2 identical shapes. Place each of the skinny rectangles on the open ends of your pumpkin pieces. To make sure everything is centered select all 3 images (holding the shift key) and then select Object>Align>Align Center.

6) Now that everything is centered you can weld the shapes together so everything cuts as one. With all 3 shapes selected in the Modify menu click on “Weld.”

7) Once you’ve selected Weld you will now have only 2 pieces to your pumpkin (and SS will color them all the same so you can see that it is no just one image).

The post How to Make a Split Pumpkin Monogram | September Silhouette Special appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Supplies:

Directions:

One side helps us show our Gator pride while the other side is ready for Halloween!

 As you can see the pillows help tie in the I Love Florida Football Wreath I made last week.

And just when I thought 2 pillows were enough, they weren’t. I needed 2 more. I was out of the orange and while chevron fabric so I fished out this polka dot fabric from the bottom of my stash and ironed on our monogram.

Again, both of these pillows are reversible, including color coordinating monograms.

 I even was able to quickly update my front porch bird cage with an easy ribbon change.

The post Reversible Fall Front Porch Pillows appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Ok, so now that you have your machine and your printable white sticker paper we are ready to go!

First, you can either import your own images to print or you can open the Silhouette Store inside Silhouette Studio and purchase a print and cut image. If you bring your own images in you will have to trace them so they are ready to cut. However, if you buy the print and cut files from the store they are ready to go.

This is how you filter and search for Print and Cut images. They will all have a small blue “P” in the corner of the image.

Second, turn the registration marks on. Turning the registration marks on will show you the workable surface you have left on your sticker paper. Those registration marks help the machine line up your sticker paper and guide it to where to cut. I like to load my workable surface up with as many designs or stickers as I am going to need. There is really no going back to reuse your sticker paper, so make it count!

Third, don’t forget you can zoom in to get a better feel for the sizing and design on your print and cut labels. You are free to use ANY fonts you have uploaded on to your computer!

Fourth, You MUST make sure that any of the text you added is not selected to cut. The best way to do this is to go to the Cut Style Window and make sure that ONLY the edges of your designs are going to cut. If you find any text or other graphics with a red line around them that you don’t want cut, just select the text/image and then click “No Cut.”

Fifth, once you are set with your label designs go ahead and send it to the printer. It will print out the needed registration marks. This photo got a little washed out but you can see the registration marks.

Sixth, line up the corner of your sticker paper with the upper left hand corner of your cutting mat. Make sure that the filled in square is in the upper left hand corner. It will not work if you position it anywhere else. Pick the cut settings for the “Printable Sticker Paper” and let ‘er rip. I mean cut. Once you’ve taken off all the “extra” sticker paper, or weeded the design, you should be left with this – a sheet of personalized labels!!

However, if you don’t pay attention to what your blade is set at this is what you will be left with. They can still be used it’s just a tad bit tougher to get the backing of the labels.

Seventh, and final, step – start labeling anything that will sit still.

Make sure no one takes your books!

Or your composition book!

These labels are great to create an organized art or homework station; just stick them on some mason jars!

We even now have a place to store all of our sight word flashcards.

The post Print and Cut 101: Back to School Labels appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Supplies:

Then I filled the other words. I won’t lie, this part was the hardest because I had chosen this pallet type sign and had to work with the gaps. I wasn’t able to put the words exactly where I would have liked.

Once you’ve placed all your vinyl on the sign, and given them a good rub down, comes the most important part: slather that baby in Mod Podge! I like to use a cheap foam brush when applying Mod Podge and for this project I just used a medium layer so it would dry quickly.

Give the Mod Podge about 20 minutes to dry and then go ahead and paint your entire sign. I kept it to one coat because that’s the look I was going for but you can put as many coats on as you need to achieve your desired look.

Here’s a close up.

I like to pull my vinyl stencil up before the paint is fully dry because I find you have less instances of the paint peeling. As you can see, using the Mod Podge really sealed the stencil to the sign and the final result is as crisp as you can get it!

I added a couple little vinyl fish on top the finished sign to fill in some of the empty space I wasn’t happy with. Here is the sign hanging up in the lake house of our lovely weekend hosts. Once day we hope to own a lake house, too, but for now we love be invited down to the lake!

And just because I love this photo I look, my little one thinks that Like is Better at the Lake, too!

The post Typography Signs 201 + Silhouette Promotion appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Supplies:

Start with your 2 smaller pieces of fabric laying with the bottom (long) edges facing together. This will be the inside of your bag. Separate your velcro and pin them about 3 inches from the edge of the fabric, making sure they are aligned.

Sew the velcro onto the fabric by sewing the edges and then making an X in the middle. Repeat on the other piece of fabric.

Take both pieces to the ironing board. Fold each piece in half the long way so you now have 4.5″x10.5″ and press. Open the fabric, press a 1/4″ seam, fold and press another 1/4″ seam. Repeat on all the 10.5″ sides (4 times all together).

Open up your 4.5″x10.5″ fabric and lay your mesh or net down with about a 1/2-1 inch overlap, close fabric, and pin into place.

At your sewing machine, sew using a zig zag stitch to sandwich the mesh in the fabric. The 1/2 – 1 inch overlap should insure that all pieces catch.

Repeat on other side. You now have 1 long piece of fabric and mesh.

Fold your fabric in half, velcro sides facing out.

Measure out your bias tape by cutting 2 pieces the exact length of the sides of your fabric mesh combo. Now comes the only slightly tricky part, sewing the bias tape onto the fabric and mesh. Every time I have to sew bias tape I have to refer to this amazing tutorial from Pretty Prudent. Once you’ve sewn on your bias tape, flip the bag right side out (so the bias tape is inside the body of the bag).

Again, because you are dealing with mesh or net it is important to use a zig-zag type stitch to capture everything within the bias tape.

Give yourself a big ole high five because you are almost done! The only thing left to do is attach the webbing (belt material) to the fabric. You can choose to sew the webbing to the inside or the outside of the bag. Here I’ve chose to sew it to the inside. Place the end of the webbing about 2 inches inside the bag and attach it the same way you did the velcro – stitching around the edge and then making an X.

The post How to Sew a Sea Shell Bag appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Today I am going to show you how to make the above tumbler using Silhouette Studio and a file I purchased from the online store. Sidenote: I use the Design Edition of Silhouette Studio but it should look very similar to the regular edition, version 2 (I have not updated to V3 and I do NOT recommend the update. There are far too many bugs that people have been reporting).

The first thing I did was purchase this graphic from the online store.

Once it downloaded I double clicked on it and this is how it appeared on my screen (if you need a larger picture, just double click on any of the following photos).

When it comes out of the library all of the shapes will be large and grouped together. IT IS IMPORTANT TO RESIZE ALL THE ITEMS GROUPED TOGETHER. You will never get the design to match if you haven’t resized ALL the pieces together.

This is where having the grid set to 1 inch squares is extremely helpful to me. To size, simply select one of the corners of the grouped design and shrink to a size that will fit your surface.

Then click “Ungroup Selected Shapes” on the bottom left hand corner. After you click the ungroup button you will have to click away from the graphic (anywhere else on the screen) before you can go back and select individual shapes.

Next I go through and color my shapes the approximate same color  as the vinyl I am going to cut them out on. This gives me a visual understanding of how the design will look and will help me select all the shapes I need to cut out of any given color.

I have picked 4 different colors for my pinwheel – light blue, royal blue, white, and red. I then like to line them all up so, once again, I can get a good visual representation of the final layered decal.

Now I am ready to cut. I am going to start with red vinyl so I have moved only my red shapes on to the cutting surface. You can see that I have flipped the pinwheel stick to a horizontal orientation, that is just to make better use of my vinyl and have less scraps.

In the Cut Settings screen I have selected Vinyl as my material. Also, I like to cut my vinyl WITH a cutting mat, I have found it to be 10x’s easier to load that without the mat, but it’s up to you. I always cut regular indoor or outdoor vinyl with the blade set to 2.

Load your vinyl or mat.

Just make sure that you have picked the correct loading selection based on your mat choice.

Repeat this process (you won’t need to reset your blade) for every color vinyl from your design.

Now that your layers of vinyl are cut it’s time to gather your supplies.

You will need a surface to apply your decal to, a weeding tool if your design is complex and includes inner cuts to a shape (like below where I apply my name), scissors, a ruler to measure your surface, and transfer tape. Transfer tape helps you pick up your design and lay it on top of another piece of vinyl or your final surface. My personal preference for transferring vinyl when I am doing a layering project is to use clear (cheap) contact paper. I don’t feel bad using a lot of it and because it is perfectly clear it helps me align my pieces more accurately.

Peel back your contact paper and put the sticky side down on to your first piece of vinyl – the piece that will be at the very bottom of your design. Rub your finger over where the contact paper meets the vinyl and then lift the vinyl off it’s backing.

Place your vinyl onto your surface, rub it down well, and then remove the contact paper. Continue the process until you have applied all your shapes. I like to refer back to my screen to make sure I am applying all the layers correctly.

Now we are ready to add our name/monogram/initial.

The toughest part of adding your name is picking the font! Click on the Text button on the left hand bar of SS and type in the name you want, then use the text style window to the right to select your text. You don’t want to cut out anything too thin, dainty, or complex unless you have patience and Advil close at hand. This is about the thinnest type of font I like to cut out.

 Another tip I have is to (almost) always place your name on an offset, or background, so that it really stands out on your design. Silhouette Studio has made this extremely simple to accomplish.

First, select your name by clicking somewhere on the design, then click the OFFSET button on the top right bar of option. Click Offset and then use the arrows to increase or decrease the area to be offset. This basically outlines your name and creates a personalized background to place your letters on. Once you’ve decided on how large or small you want it, click Apply.

And here is the finished cup! Ready for a whole lot of summer sippin’!

The before, middle, and final phases of my tumbler.

Layering final is a fun way to put almost any design onto any surface. I love giving these tumblers as gift and the options are endless!

The post Vinyl Layering 101 | A Silhouette Tutorial appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Supplies:

I used my Silhouette Cameo to cut out this shape that I purchased in the online store. Instead of cutting out the legs, I let the yellow pencils act as the flamingo legs. I also skipped the beak.

If you don’t have a cutting machine you can make yourself a template by cutting out a basic flamingo body on thick paper or a cereal box and use it to trace as many flamingoes as you need onto pink scrapbook paper. If you don’t feel comfortable free-handing a flamingo body search “flamingo clipart” in any search engine and print out one you like to trace.

You can go all 1 color for your flock.

Or mix it up a bit!

The printable tags allow you to cut or punch from a 1.75″ shape up to a 2.5″ square or circle.

In the end I like the simple circle the best, but it’s a cute tag however you punch it! Simply write out your information on the back of the tag once you’ve cut it out.

Use a hole punch and use some cute twine or ribbon to tie the tag to the neck of your flamingo flock.

Now your kids can hand them out to all their friends and school and stay in touch over the summer!

The post Let’s Flamingle End of School Year Info Tag appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

We’re going Throwback Thursday Style today with a print and cut tutorial for your Silhouette cutting machine! Why the throwback? Well because Silhouette has an amazing deal on a Print and Cut Bundle!! I’ll post the details under the tutorial, just remember you have to use the coupon code KINDA to get the discounts!

The Silhouette can do many amazingly awesome things, the problem is you have to know how to use the software to get it to do all those amazingly awesome things. I will try to bring you some Silhouette Tutorials as questions come my way.

Today’s tutorial is how to effectively use the Print and Cut feature on your machine to “punch” out party circles/logos/tags in many different shapes without needing any physical punches! I am going to use my Spring party tags from my latest Crafty Ladies Night Out post. However after going through the steps to make the tutorial I realized it would be easier if I resized my dimensions to make it easier for you. So you can now download those newly resized pages here and here. However my screen shots will have the original files.

or

Silhouette Portrait™ plus the following print & cut related items:

1 package of temporary tattoo paper

1 package of printable adhesive kraft paper

1 package of printable adhesive gold foil

1 package of printable adhesive silver foil

1 package of printable white sticker paper

1 package of printable clear sticker paper

1 package of printable adhesive cotton canvas

for $129.99 ($237.92 MSRP)

If you have any questions about the specialty media, let me know! I am working on some tattoos to show y’all real soon!!

The post #TBT (Throwback Thursday) Print and Cut Tutorial appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

Using the fun supplies in the September Baribox coupled with my Crop-a-dile, a rhinestone brad, a 4 bar sized blank card, double sided scrapbook adhesive, and a little glitter glue I came up with a great way to present a gift card for an upcoming wedding.

First use the really cute Dear Lizzy date stamper and the Color Box ink to stamp a sentiment and the date onto one of the SEI Polished Pearl embellishment tags. Then hand write Congratulations or whatever phrase would best fit your special occasion. Then glue the tag to the center of the front of the card. I added 2 more butterfly embellishments that were also in the kit to give the card some fun and dimension.

To create the gift card pocket I glued the foldable embellishment tag to the inside of the card and attached another really cute tag I found in the kit on top of that. I hand wrote Mr. & Mrs. and this was for a wedding present. Insert your gift card so you can get a good idea where to attach your brad and one more tag from the SEI Polished Pearls set.

 To add more fun and dimension I glued the rest of the butterflies from the kit to the inside of the card as well as used a little glitter glue to make “polka dots” all over the card. When the glue dried I used the Color Box ink pad along all the edges of the card to add some color.

The post Gift Card Holder Wedding Card | Baribox appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.

 Read on to get the details on making this card and a sweet (over $100 in savings) Silhouette machine offer!!

 To make this card I started with the double-sided adhesive starter kit that Silhouette recently sent me. It has everything you need to make really cute glitter and flocked details on any surface and even includes a special download card for 10 free special designs that work great with this specialty media.

I opened my Silhouette Studio design software and designed where I wanted my card to have glitter.

 I used the recommended settings and cut out my design using a sheet of the double-sided adhesive.

  Weed out all the negative areas off your cutting mat and this is what you are left with. Yup, my cutting mat is WELL loved and used as you can see!

So to make the card you’ll need 1 folded blank card, mine is a 4 bar size, your cut out, glitter, and a brush.

Very carefully remove the YELLOW BACKING on your cut out design. It will be must easier to pull off the white front, but don’t. Trust me!! Once you’ve removed the yellow backing lay your design down on the front of your card.

At this point you can now peel off the front and then give it a glitter bath. The included brush is great for getting all the extra glitter off the card.

The post Glitter Thank You Card and Silhouette Deal appeared first on Shes {kinda} Crafty.